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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.